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Alberta Ferretti
fall-2023-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
https://assets.vogue.com…dit-gorunway.jpg
2,023
ready-to-wear
fall
Alberta Ferretti’s show opened with a strapless gown cut from suiting fabric in boardroom gray. With its internal corsetry, the shape was signature Ferretti, but the fabric was unexpected. It’s not a dressmaker’s material, but a tailor’s. “For me,” she said backstage, “I like when the woman is a little bit eccentric an...
Nicole Phelps
February 22, 2023
Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
pre-fall-2023
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2,023
pre-fall
Alberta Ferretti calls women her muses: “I don’t look at movie stars, or at any other glamorous figure past or present, to get inspired,” she said. “I look at real women, the way they live; I like to read how times are changing and how what I do can make sense in today’s world.” Broadening her offer has been her concer...
Tiziana Cardini
November 28, 2022
Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
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501
Alberta Ferretti
spring-2023-ready-to-wear
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2,023
ready-to-wear
spring
Eager to keep apace with fashion’s more casual direction, Alberta Ferretti has worked hard in recent years to loosen up her aesthetic. Where she was once known for party dresses, she now likes to think of herself as a 360-degree brand. Since before the pandemic, she’s been delving into sportswear—she even lassoed cowbo...
Nicole Phelps
September 21, 2022
Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
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502
Alberta Ferretti
resort-2023
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2,023
resort
“Women are my muses, I try to perceive the evolution of what they like,” Alberta Ferretti said at a resort appointment. That’s not an easy task, today’s fluctuating social and cultural conditions are constantly shifting the perspective. But Ferretti is an undeterred optimist, and also a pragmatist, and she embraces a b...
Tiziana Cardini
June 15, 2022
Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
fall-2024-ready-to-wear
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2,024
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fall
In the dark of Alberta Ferretti’s venue pre-show, guests wearing her diaphanous chiffons posed for photos on the runway. Though her reputation was built on ethereal evening dresses in the ’90s, for years now she’s been equally focused on daywear. Women can’t live in silk slip dresses alone.Backstage, she described the ...
Nicole Phelps
February 21, 2024
Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
pre-fall-2024
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2,024
pre-fall
Alberta Ferretti designs for “real women and their busy lives,” she said at a pre-fall appointment. “They want to sync up with the times without looking too fashionable or in-your-face.”Her formula is “daywear with charm,” somehow classic, but enhanced by light-handed creativity and the right amount of novelty. She doe...
Tiziana Cardini
November 30, 2023
Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
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505
Alberta Ferretti
spring-2024-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2024-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
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2,024
ready-to-wear
spring
A few looks into the Alberta Ferretti show, held in the Cortile della Rocchetta in Milan’s historic Castello Sforzesco, the wind kicked up and Ferretti’s wispy chiffon dresses started to dance. The rain that threatened to come down waited for later—Diesel’s Glenn Martens, who also held his show outside, wasn’t so lucky...
Nicole Phelps
September 20, 2023
Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
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506
Alberta Ferretti
resort-2024
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2,024
resort
Alberta Ferretti held her resort show at Castel Sismondo, a 15th century fortress in Rimini, a popular seaside resort on the Adriatic sea in the Emilia-Romagna region in Northern Italy. The area was recently hit by floodings so severe they left thousands homeless, heavily damaging its infrastructure. “It was the worst ...
Tiziana Cardini
May 26, 2023
Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
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507
Alberta Ferretti
spring-2025-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2025-ready-to-wear/alberta-ferretti
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2,025
ready-to-wear
spring
With ruffles aflutter in the midst of a major boho revival on the runways, Alberta Ferretti is in the middle of the fashion conversation once again. This isn’t a case of sniffing out a trend. Wispy chiffon dresses have been Ferretti’s signature since before the last boho revival, but she made the most of the moment thi...
Nicole Phelps
September 17, 2024
Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
Alberta Ferretti
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508
Alberta Ferretti
resort-2025
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2,025
resort
Alberta Ferretti works a lot, but also “lives a lot,” as she said at a resort appointment. “If you don’t live, you don’t know what women want.” In a fashion system where creative directors are mostly male, Ferretti has carved her own path through decades of dedication to an idea of romantic pragmatism. “I am a dreamer,...
Tiziana Cardini
June 18, 2024
Alberta Ferretti
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Alberta Ferretti
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Alejandra Alonso Rojas
fall-2017-ready-to-wear
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-ready-to-wear/alejandra-alonso-rojas
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2,017
ready-to-wear
fall
Alejandra Alonso Rojas is riding the crest of a wave: She picked up the Fashion Group International’s Rising Star Award last month, and today she presented a winning sophomore collection in a cozy West Village townhouse, chosen specifically to evoke a sense of home.It was just the right setting for this namesake collec...
Laird Borrelli-Persson
February 11, 2017
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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2,018
ready-to-wear
fall
“I’ve re-created the atelier here,” said Alejandra Alonso Rojas, drawing attention to the far corner of the white Lower East Side gallery space in which she presented, where three white-robed assistants were busy constructing garments. Handwork is one of the unique selling points of this feminine and personal line, run...
Laird Borrelli-Persson
February 8, 2018
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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2,018
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spring
Not all designers showing at New York Fashion Week are out to make a seasonal splash; such is the case with Alejandra Alonso Rojas, a designer with the courage of her convictions. “What I really want to do are timeless [pieces],” she says at a preview of her new line. “[Other] people are talking about trends; I’m doing...
Laird Borrelli-Persson
September 10, 2017
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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Alejandra Alonso Rojas
fall-2019-ready-to-wear
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2,019
ready-to-wear
fall
One of the ways that Alejandra Alonso Rojas’s line is women-friendly is that it isn’t driven by trends.Disposableis not an adjective that can be applied to this designer’s work, both in terms of its make—knits are done by hand, prints and dyeing are done in-house—and the stuff it’s made of—butter-soft suedes, upcycled ...
Laird Borrelli-Persson
February 22, 2019
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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513
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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2,019
pre-fall
Things are popping for Alejandra Alonso Rojas professionally and personally. The designer, who decided to drop Spring in favor of showing three times a year so she could better focus on her strengths (read: knits, leathers, and handwork), shot her first Pre-Fall collection in the pop-up stop she opened a few weeks ago ...
Laird Borrelli-Persson
December 4, 2018
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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2,019
resort
“I really put myself into this collection,” said Alejandra Alonso Rojas at her Resort debut. It was her biggest offering to date, and it showed the designer in top form. As always, these clothes were inspired by her native country; in this case her focus was on Andalucía, where the sun always shines and where jasmine, ...
Laird Borrelli-Persson
June 1, 2018
Alejandra Alonso Rojas
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Alejandra Alonso Rojas made her runway debut for fall 2020. It seemed a logical step since she was a CFDA/VogueFashion Fund finalist last year. The catwalk, understandably, has a magic allure for a designer—there’s nothing like seeing clothes on a body in motion—but it’s not the right format for everyone or for every c...
Laird Borrelli-Persson
February 12, 2020
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Alejandra Alonso Rojas is by no means an under-the-radar designer. Instagram reveals that there exists a close-knit circle of Rojas-ites, and her clever hand-knits have been knocked off by fast-fashion chains. Still, this can only be described as a blockbuster year for the designer. A brief chronology of how her stars ...
Laird Borrelli-Persson
September 10, 2019
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All of Alejandra Alonso Rojas’s work celebrates her Spanish heritage in some way. As she was creating this collection in New York, the designer was longing for her home country (the pandemic makes traveling there complicated), and included elements of what she calls “Spanish nostalgia” into the line-up through her vibr...
Laird Borrelli-Persson
March 1, 2021
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Many things old are new again in fashion, and not just in terms of inspirations. The made-to-order business model is getting a rethink, for example, and so is the salon-style presentation. Alejandra Alonso Rojas invited guests to tea at Cipriani House, and models walked slowly among the round tables as a pianist played...
Laird Borrelli-Persson
March 17, 2022
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The calm serenity of the beach in late summer inspired a dynamic collection from Alejandra Alonso Rojas. Carried over from spring were bias-dyed slip dresses in sunset hues, while the customizable drawstring of that season’s dramatic parachute gown was transferred to a colorful cocktail dress. “This energy just got int...
Laird Borrelli-Persson
December 17, 2021
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Pace is a concept that gets overlooked in fashion. Somewhere along the way, change became synonymous with speed, to the detriment of the industry and the environment. Maybe if fewer products were made, more creativity and care could be put into them. Change needn’t be fast, and it never has been at Alejandra Alonso Roj...
Laird Borrelli-Persson
September 8, 2021
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In a season when many designers are focused on groundedness, Alejandra Alonso Rojas moved in the opposite direction, looking to the sky, specifically the Northern Lights, for inspiration. Rojas has always been drawn to “dopamine” colors, but after several seasons’ surfeit of blinding brights like Pink PP, it was the pa...
Laird Borrelli-Persson
February 12, 2023
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Alejandra Alonso Rojas, by way of her young son, has been paying particular attention to space, planets, and constellations. While she was designing this pre-fall 2023 collection, the first images from NASA’s James Webb Space Telescope were released. She was particulary taken with Webb’s breathtaking visual of the star...
José Criales-Unzueta
January 12, 2023
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Alejandra Alonso Rojas hosted her spring 2023 runway show at Verōnika, the upscale restaurant at the Fotografiska Museum on Park Avenue South. From the choice of venue to the chilled champagne and crisp cudités, the experience was all about the intimacy and elegance Rojas has continued to build over the years.Rojas col...
José Criales-Unzueta
September 12, 2022
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On the last day of New York Fashion Week, designer Alejandra Alonso Rojas wanted to relieve some of the fashion chaos with a collection that was both peaceful and calming. “The whole concept behind it was grounding,” Rojas says. “I’ve been meditating a lot and enjoying the feeling of quietness.” That being said, Rojas ...
Christian Allaire
February 14, 2024
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The sound of rolling waves opened the spring collection of Alejandra Alonso Rojas: The designer, who is from Spain, looked to the French Riviera and Menorca for inspiration this season. “I spend every summer there,” said Rojas. “It really brings me peace, and I’m always inspired by the landscapes.” The designer fell in...
Christian Allaire
September 11, 2023
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Alejandra Alonso Rojas poured her love of the sun and beach into her resort collection, tacking images of shells, seaside family photos, and ’90s supermodels in swimsuits to her mood board. There they shared space with snaps of Salvador Dalí and Surrealist art—which explains the melting clock and lip-shaped sofa in the...
Laird Borrelli-Persson
June 13, 2023
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When designer Alejandra Alonso Rojas was researching venues for her New York Fashion Week spring show, she toured the New-York Historical Society on the Upper West Side—and was instantly drawn to the giant Picasso painting inside it, titledLe Tricorne. “It’s inspired by Andalusia, which so happens to be the theme of my...
Christian Allaire
September 11, 2024
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At a resort appointment, Alejandra Alonso Rojas admitted she was feeling homesick for Madrid—the city in which she was born, and where much of her family still resides. To counter that feeling of longing, she created a resort collection paying homage to the Spanish capital. “I really had Madrid in my head, and the firs...
Christian Allaire
June 5, 2024
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Should you ever have the opportunity to meet Alessandra Rich, you will undoubtedly agree that she does not seem like a lunatic. But her weird and wonderful new collection of eveningwear made it abundantly clear that she must have a screw or two loose, somewhere. It was even nuttier than her last collection, which was i...
Maya Singer
March 1, 2013
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"I didn't watch any of the Olympics! I swear!" So claimed London-based designer Alessandra Rich as she showed her presentation by appointment today. You had to wonder whether Rich had, in fact, gotten deeply into the Games, inasmuch as her new collection riffed on those ludicrous yet amazing leotards that Olympic gymna...
Maya Singer
October 1, 2012
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Perfect is so overrated. "I love it when there's something a little bit wrong," said Alessandra Rich of a Fall collection that she dubbed Bad Reputation.The designer's mix of well-intentioned chic meets girl-gone-bad came through in big bows, duchesse silk, taffeta, and a prim georgette top-half of a dress with a trans...
Tina Isaac-Goizé
March 1, 2014
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The Alessandra Rich look is very, very specific: Rich makes fancy clothes in essentially one long and lean silhouette. She uses lots of lace and is a fan of the ruffle. Given that Rich's aesthetic is so narrowly defined, it's really quite impressive that she manages to refresh it each season. This collection was a case...
Maya Singer
September 28, 2013
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Want a lacy party dress? For the past few years the Italian-born, London-based designer Alessandra Rich has been a go-to source for such things. She specializes in a long, narrow silhouette, sometimes belted and usually at least partially see-through (the better to showcase the lace, not the legs, she insists, though w...
Nicole Phelps
March 7, 2015
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Fashion is as obsessed as ever with looking backward for inspiration, but its attentions are mostly focused on the 1970s this season. Dressmaker Alessandra Rich's decision to revisit the '80s puts her in a category pretty much her own for Spring. Reference points likeDynastyand the daytime soap operaSanta Barbaradidn't...
Nicole Phelps
September 28, 2014
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Oh, what a difference a season makes. Where the unapologetic ruffles and shirred flou ofAlessandra Rich’s runaway bride from Spring felt, at times, a little too over the top, her femme fatale for Fall 2016 ran away to Asia in search of some trouble, and ended up arriving right at the zeitgeist of bad-taste-good-taste g...
Alessandra Codinha
March 5, 2016
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For Spring,Alessandra Richunveiled an unabashedly feminine collection dubbed Dolores, after an invented South American heroine, one whose wardrobe for her romantic escapades is punctuated by expanses of lace; frilled, fluted hems; and large, poufy sleeves worn off the shoulder. “The story is of a girl who runs away to ...
Alessandra Codinha
October 3, 2015
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Like Richie, Alessandra Rich has a surname that telegraphs endless decadence untempered by discretion. Unlike Richie, Alessandra boasts a wealth of tasteful discretion, while remaining true to her core USP of ravishing dresses garnished by flourish. Today, in a fine apartment on Avenue Victor-Hugo that showcased the ab...
Luke Leitch
March 3, 2017
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Alessandra Richlikes to tell a story alongside her clothes, and the tale she unfurled for spring today at the Hotel Montana was one that’ll likely sound pretty familiar. Her collection—dubbed “MISSTAKE”—played on the idea of happy accidents. Its heroine, the titular “Miss Take,” grabs anything she wants and throws caut...
Alessandra Codinha
September 30, 2016
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Alessandra Rich held her show today in a lush, only-in-Paris apartment whose beauty more than compensated for its fifth-floor elevation. You could easily imagine this season’s ’80s-flavored crepuscular customer heading out into the night from this address.Sometimes more than a mite Saint Laurent or Chanel in its inspir...
Luke Leitch
March 3, 2018
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Last season, this appointment was one-on-one with the designer and a few models in a lovely private apartment. This season, it was a salon show in the same lovely apartment. We sat and watched as Alessandra Rich’s angular, feminine ’40s curlicues emerged to circle the sofas and pass the poufs, mostly serenely.It was ve...
Luke Leitch
October 2, 2017
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“Oh myGoddd. . . so cool . . . so extra . . . so fresh . . . so fashion!”That assessment of this Alessandra Rich show echoed up the red-carpeted stairwell as the hairspray-suffused, client-heavy audience poured forth down from the marble-walled private apartment that was again her venue and into the clot of Mercedes th...
Luke Leitch
March 1, 2019
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“It’s boring,” said Alessandra Rich of her staid cashmere cable-knit skirts, pants, sweaters, and pearl-buttoned cardigans in this strategically demure, very deshabille collection. That knitwear—sported by Rich herself—may indeed have veered to the quiet side, but there was plenty of noise in the marble and mirror-wall...
Luke Leitch
September 29, 2018
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“She is a woman of the night and ready to have fun…she’s a little bit, how would I say, mysterious, and, um….” This was alooong“um”: What was Alessandra Rich working up to? “She’s ready to party, that’s for sure.” Rich says in her clothes what she cannot quite bring herself to say in person. Her women are lionesses dre...
Luke Leitch
February 29, 2020
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It would be so easy for Alessandra Rich to make catty little dresses that sell like hotcakes and think nothing of their intention or place in society. But Rich knows good and well the meaning of her ’80s-inflected frocks. Their Reagan-era fabulousness stripped of some sinister implications, cultish It pieces that want ...
Steff Yotka
September 28, 2019
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Alessandra Rich’s girls seem to have spent their quarantines in flirtatious mode—at least this was what the fall collection’s video suggested. A blonde bombshell sashayed in a classy hotel’s marbled lobby wearing a tight-fitted midi pencil skirt, sheer black stockings, and studded stilettos; she stretched languidly on ...
Tiziana Cardini
March 2, 2021
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The pandemic forced Alessandra Rich to spend four months in London during the lockdown. Luckily, she was able to show her spring collection in her own showroom in Milan, though, it's still a far cry from the luxe of the Parisian flat and the decadence of Lapérouse, where she has received her clients in recent fashion w...
Tiziana Cardini
September 29, 2020
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Alessandra Rich’s fall collection was full of seductive evening pieces which she designed months ago, when the desire for getting out and having fun after two years of restrictions seemed to finally become a reality. But the dramatic events unfolding in Ukraine drastically shifted the perspective. A full-on party time ...
Tiziana Cardini
March 11, 2022
Alessandra Rich
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At a pre-fall appointment, Alessandra Rich was neatly put-together in a relaxed sweatshirt emblazoned with a glitteryRichlogo and track pants of the skintight variety. Looking at her, one expected to see a collection of her young-upper-crust clothes: long pleated dresses in micro-florals and white pussy-bowed collarett...
Tiziana Cardini
December 14, 2021
Alessandra Rich
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“Take me out, it’s sunny outside,” said an upbeat Alessandra Rich when asked to summarize her collection’s mood. Eager like the rest of us to leave behind the doom and gloom of the past two years and “feel the heat of the sun on the skin,” she tuned in to the current obsession for the sexy, skimpy, body-con look that ...
Tiziana Cardini
October 11, 2021
Alessandra Rich
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Alessandra Rich went sentimental for resort: Hearts and flowers bloom in abundance on the copious frills of the girly dresses she favors. The choice is suggestive of a hopeful mindset. Stuck in Milan since the beginning of the pandemic and a bit nostalgic of her London life, Rich is in restart mode, ready to resume the...
Tiziana Cardini
June 16, 2021
Alessandra Rich
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Alessandra Rich showed her fall collection at the Paris Sotheby’s headquarters; the room where auctions usually take place was turned into a white-walled, minimalsalon de couture. After last season’s plush baroque setting and louche atmosphere at Maxim’s, she wanted the mood to be lighter and brighter.Rich likes women ...
Tiziana Cardini
March 3, 2023
Alessandra Rich
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“Who AR you?” asked Alessandra Rich at a pre-fall appointment. The puzzling question wasn’t intended as a Hamlet-like existential conundrum, rather “which Alessandra Rich woman are you?” To cover the apparently moody, capricious nature of the AR creature, the collection offered a sort of à la carte menu of contrasting ...
Tiziana Cardini
December 12, 2022
Alessandra Rich
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For her return to the catwalk, Alessandra Rich went for the quintessential Paris restaurant Maxim’s, whose Belle Epoque, dark red interior (carpeted, plush, dimly lit with Art Nouveau original chandeliers) still has a flavor of chic decadence. “I thought it was the perfect frame for my collection, as this is a place wh...
Tiziana Cardini
September 30, 2022
Alessandra Rich
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A sense of adventure isn’t exactly what comes to mind when thinking of Alessandra Rich’s style. You don’t picture fearless explorations of faraway outdoors, or attending events like Coachella, wearing one of her high-style red carpet numbers or one of her prim, pussy-bowed shirt dresses that Kate Middleton favors. But ...
Tiziana Cardini
June 13, 2022
Alessandra Rich
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Alessandra Rich riffed on the naughty ingénue repertoire she favors for her fall presentation; to make the message coming across, the label’s Art Deco showroom was set up as a boudoir. In one of the rooms of the sprawling marble-lined space, a decadent four-poster bed was bedecked with white lace curtains and a red vel...
Tiziana Cardini
March 1, 2024
Alessandra Rich
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Alfred Hitchcock once called Grace Kelly “a snow-covered volcano.” The blonde actress-turned-princess famously embodied the hot Ice Queen cliché, classy on the outside, lustful on the inside—a duality that some consider erotic. Alessandra Rich finds it “an attractive paradox,” and for pre-fall she flirted with the dupl...
Tiziana Cardini
December 20, 2023
Alessandra Rich
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Alessandra Rich held her spring show at the Reformed Church of the Holy Spirit in Paris. The light coming through Its impressive elliptical glass ceiling seemed so otherworldly, she imagined a space shuttle landing after a voyage, carrying a flotilla of Rich-clad aliens. She called the collection From Venus With Love.M...
Tiziana Cardini
September 30, 2023
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Alessandra Rich is an elegant woman, always dressed in the prim frocks she designs for her eponymous label, which counts the Princess of Wales among its fans.Despite that well-mannered association, Rich stages fantasies of a rather different kind in her collections. Her stiletto-heeled creatures teeter between femme fa...
Tiziana Cardini
June 15, 2023
Alessandra Rich
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Alessandra Rich’s presentation took place in her brand’s expansive Art Deco showroom, featuring black-and-white marble floors and opulent gilded finishes. The setting framed her elegant spring collection, designed for women with a packed social calendar filled with cocktails and soirées. Rich is known for weaving a nau...
Tiziana Cardini
September 29, 2024
Alessandra Rich
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Though avian prints appeared in this show—on the likes of VoguettePlum Sykesand the waist-training corsetiere Mr. Pearl—its title paid homage to Alfred Hitchcock’s 1963 thriller about violent bird attacks. Throughout his careerAlexander McQueenwould be drawn, like a magnet, to the theme of destruction, present in this ...
null
October 3, 2015
Alexander McQueen
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Dante was shown in a candle-lit church in Spitalfields, London with a skeleton seated front row. Beauty and blasphemy were woven throughout this wide-ranging collection in whichAlexander McQueenexperimented with denim and Victoriana, tropes that he would return to again and again.
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October 3, 2015
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Two seasons after showing hisBirds collection,Alexander McQueen’s models were flipping them to the audience at his Hunger show, which referenced the erotic vampire movie of the same name. The designer added bondage straps to some of the looks, and made liberal use of a blood red color. Among the more outre elements of ...
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October 3, 2015
Alexander McQueen
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Models stormed the runway like feral beasts atAlexander McQueen’s Fall 1997 show, which referenced H.G. Wells’s novel,The Island of Dr. Moreau, about a vivisectionist who creates humanoids out of animals. Topolino turned hair into manes, and used makeup to give a glowering feline aspect to models dressed in leather, ac...
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October 3, 2015
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Alexander McQueenput on a series of landmark shows in the late nineties, each one more extreme than the next. But for sheer provocation, nothing topped spring 1997’s La Poupée, or The Doll. Inspired by the artist Hans Bellmer, who fetishistically rearranged toy dolls, McQueen experimented with proportion and, more dist...
null
September 18, 1996
Alexander McQueen
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Havingexplored the element of water,Alexander McQueenmoved onto fire, closing his Fall ’98 show with a model trapped in a ring of flames. Dubbing the show Joan, in reference to the Catholic martyr, the designer made use of metal mesh; and he layered tragedy on top of tragedy, printing the portraits of the Romanov child...
null
October 3, 2015
Alexander McQueen
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While there was plenty of pain inAlexander McQueen’s work, there was usually pleasure, and often some poetry as well. Such was the case with spring 1998’s Golden Shower show, renamed Untitled when the sponsors balked at the lasciviousness of the former title. Models walked down a runway made of water-filled Lucite tank...
null
October 3, 2015
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It wasn’t a fashion show. It was performance art. The models at__Alexander McQueen’__sSpring 1999 outing navigated two robotic contraptions in clothes that felt decidedly lighter and more sensual than his previous work, albeit every bit as fetishistic. Only whenShalom Harlowemerged in a strapless broderie anglaise dres...
null
September 1, 1998
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Despite the fact that it was inspired byThe Shining, The Overlook was one ofAlexander McQueen’s most poetic collections. Presented inside a Lucite box, that imitated a Victorian-themed snow globe, this wintry fantasy featured ice skaters, gorgeous chunky handknits, and warm shearlings in a birch forest. As always, ther...
null
October 3, 2015
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Björk took a fancy to, and was photographed in, a dramatic, deconstructed acid-wash denim hoop dress from this collection. Named for Eshu, the Yoruba spirit, the show paired African influences (neck rings) with Victoriana (leg-of-mutton sleeves) to dramatic effect.
null
October 3, 2015
Alexander McQueen
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With cheeky insoucianceAlexander McQueendropped trou at the end of his Spring 2000 show to reveal his stars and stripes boxers. Eye was shown in New York, on a pier on the West side, and, once again, the models sloshed through water. They wore clothes that drew from active sportswear, bondage, and the Middle East;Gisel...
null
October 3, 2015
Alexander McQueen
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Colorful lights, a merry-go-round, the sound of children? Alexander McQueen's mise-en-scène brought to mind family trips, fun and games, and maybe a couple of lighthearted mimes.But once the lights went down and the blaring soundtrack began, it became perfectly clear that there was nothing even remotely candy-coated ab...
null
February 20, 2001
Alexander McQueen
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Alexander McQueen's show was nothing short of monumental. The audience sat around a mirrored cube, which, when lit from inside, revealed itself to be a mental-hospital holding cell. Demented girls, wearing hospital headbands and everything from extraordinary mussel-shell skirts to impossibly chic pearl-colored cocktail...
null
September 25, 2000
Alexander McQueen
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Casting away all but one of his usual theatrical props, Alexander McQueen proved to Paris that his design can stand on its own dramatically erotic strengths. Showing in the shadowy medieval vaulted hall of the Conciergerie, McQueen couldn’t resist a lone, macabre trick—a vista of a pack of caged wolves, and the opening...
Sarah Mower
March 8, 2002
Alexander McQueen
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spring
"The Dance of the Twisted Bull" was the title of Alexander McQueen's highly anticipated collection, his first since partnering with Gucci Group and deciding to show in Paris.McQueen pulled off a bravura, Latin-themed romp. One particularly theatrical dress came equipped withbanderillas—the long spears with which bullfi...
null
October 5, 2001
Alexander McQueen
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A glass wind-tunnel corridor bridging a snow-covered wasteland: that was the bleak techno-meets-nature setting for Alexander McQueen’s mind trip for fall. “I wanted it to be like a nomadic journey across the tundra,” he said. “A big, desolate space, so that nothing would distract from the work.”The clothes, sculpted in...
Sarah Mower
March 7, 2003
Alexander McQueen
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Alexander McQueen, showman, bad boy, where are you now? After joining Gucci Group and losing 30 pounds, the designer has shed his famously macabre show tactics. The most shocking things about his summer presentation were its stripped-down, old-fashioned romance and solid commercial appeal.Against a giant screen project...
Sarah Mower
October 4, 2002
Alexander McQueen
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It's only understandable that if the man who's been at the eye of the whirlwind of negotiations about taking up the reins at Yves Saint Laurent might have been thrown into an emotional spin. As we now know, Alexander McQueen turned down the offer, saying that it was far more important for him to concentrate on his own ...
Sarah Mower
March 4, 2004
Alexander McQueen
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It takes a showman like Alexander McQueen to get the lifeblood pumping back into fashion performance. His show—staged in the Salle Wagram, a nineteenth-century Parisian dance hall—was an exuberantly hilarious reenactment of Sydney Pollack’s Depression-era filmThey Shoot Horses, Don't They?Choreographed by Michael Clark...
Sarah Mower
October 9, 2003
Alexander McQueen
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Tippi Hedren and Marilyn Monroe. Biker molls and sweater girls. You got it: Alexander McQueen went to the sixties, all the way, for fall. With its filched movie and rock 'n' roll themes, the collection read as a knowing vehicle, a McQueen director's cut. Glacially restrained tailoring, early rocker chic, the classic Ho...
Sarah Mower
March 3, 2005
Alexander McQueen
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According to the program notes, Alexander McQueen's fall collection was inspired by the very different gangs featured in two French films from the nineties: the disenfranchised suburban Parisians of 1995'sLa Haine,and the sixteenth-century Catholic thugs of 1993'sLa Reine Margot.If what actually appeared on the catwalk...
Tim Blanks
January 18, 2005
Alexander McQueen
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Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
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Alexander Mcqueen
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ready-to-wear
spring
“It was a lot of McQueen, all in one big collection.” Thus spake the designer after a performance that came across as a positioning statement—in more ways than one. The presentation summed up all his experience in sharp tailoring, spectacular romantic dresses, couture richness, and downright showmanship. And, with ever...
Sarah Mower
October 7, 2004
Alexander McQueen
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Alexander McQueen & Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
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596
Alexander Mcqueen
spring-2005-menswear
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menswear
spring
In the current climate, pairing "desert" and "army" would seemingly lead to one inescapable conclusion. But the crop-haired soldiers Alexander McQueen sent down his spring runway were more World War II desert fox than twenty-first-century jarhead. Maybe that's not so unexpected—there's always more romance in the past, ...
Tim Blanks
June 27, 2004
Alexander McQueen
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Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
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597
Alexander Mcqueen
fall-2006-ready-to-wear
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ready-to-wear
fall
Only Alexander McQueen could provide the astonishing feat of techno-magic that ended his show. Inside an empty glass pyramid, a mysterious puff of white smoke appeared from nowhere and spun in midair, slowly resolving itself into the moving, twisting shape of a woman enveloped in the billowing folds of a white dress. I...
Sarah Mower
March 2, 2006
Alexander McQueen
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Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
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Alexander Mcqueen
fall-2006-menswear
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menswear
fall
A preacher ranted apocalyptically on the soundtrack, Johnny Cash croakedPersonal Jesus, a blood-red moon hovered above the catwalk—the scene was set for another cinematic Alexander McQueen spectacle, this one a vision from hell, as he took care to point out in his accompanying notes. The presentation seemed (to this vi...
Tim Blanks
January 16, 2006
Alexander McQueen
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Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
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Alexander Mcqueen
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ready-to-wear
spring
Alexander McQueen has changed. The commanding impresario who once took delight in scaring and astonishing his audience with stadium-filling shows and designing at the brink of scandal has—if we're to judge by the past two seasons—joined the regular ranks of ready-to-wear designers who line up their models like soldiers...
Sarah Mower
October 6, 2005
Alexander McQueen
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Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
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Alexander Mcqueen
spring-2006-menswear
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menswear
spring
Alexander McQueen's conviction that there's romance in savagery found a perfect complement in the inspiration for his latest men's collection. William Golding'sLord of the Flies, the classic novel that spawned a forgettable Balthazar Getty movie, is a proto-Lost, weaving the tale of a group of schoolboys stranded on a ...
Tim Blanks
June 27, 2005
Alexander McQueen
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Lee McQueen
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Alexander Mcqueen
fall-2007-ready-to-wear
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ready-to-wear
fall
In a season when the agendas of fashion are finally being rewritten, all a professional audience really comes to Paris for is to witness brilliant designers working on modern cut for twenty-first-century life—and to inspect it in close-up. Even on a Friday night, in rain and heavy weekend traffic, they will drag themse...
Sarah Mower
March 1, 2007
Alexander McQueen
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Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
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602
Alexander Mcqueen
fall-2007-menswear
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2,007
menswear
fall
It's telling that when Alexander McQueen conceded an interest in superheroes for his new collection, the first creature that sprung to his mind was a warlock. Let's face it—he's always found the dark side a much more inspiring proposition than its sweetness 'n' light alternative, and for that we can all be heartily gra...
Tim Blanks
January 14, 2007
Alexander McQueen
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Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
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603
Alexander Mcqueen
spring-2007-ready-to-wear
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2,007
ready-to-wear
spring
The story of the last few years of Alexander McQueen has been a long, frequently angry tussle between his love of grand theatrics (which often deflect energy and attention from the clothes) and the more sullen straight-up parades flung on to appease the commercial guys (which only deflate his critics' expectations). Fo...
Sarah Mower
October 5, 2006
Alexander McQueen
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Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
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Alexander Mcqueen
spring-2007-menswear
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2,007
menswear
spring
Alexander McQueen's collections veer between extremes of creative profligacy and gimlet-eyed focus. His menswear for spring 2006 was an instance of the latter. The show was called "Harlem," a name that—in McQueen's mind, at least—doesn't only refer to the uptown NYC neighborhood. It's also an anagram of Mahler, whose m...
Tim Blanks
June 26, 2006
Alexander McQueen
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Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
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605
Alexander Mcqueen
fall-2008-ready-to-wear
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ready-to-wear
fall
The one element that has gone missing in the collections is the spine-tingling, eye-welling emotion of a show so exceptional to witness that—despite all exhaustion, cynicism, and workaday pressures—it suddenly transforms being involved in fashion into a magical privilege. Just when it seemed like that feeling was virtu...
Sarah Mower
February 28, 2008
Alexander McQueen
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Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
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Alexander Mcqueen
fall-2008-menswear
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menswear
fall
At some point in the recent past, Alexander McQueen took a month to travel around the Indian subcontinent. The trip was significant enough that he saw it as a pilgrimage. But how to incorporate such a realization into a fashion collection? McQueen endeavored to establish a mood by printing his own photo of Mount Everes...
Tim Blanks
January 12, 2008
Alexander McQueen
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Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
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Alexander Mcqueen
spring-2008-ready-to-wear
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ready-to-wear
spring
First, what must be said: Alexander McQueen's Spring collection was a tribute to the late Isabella Blow, the woman who discovered him, famously propelled his career from a student rack to a couture house, and faithfully wore his clothes—and Philip Treacy's hats—in their most extreme manifestations. Second, though: All ...
Sarah Mower
October 5, 2007
Alexander McQueen
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Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
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Alexander Mcqueen
spring-2008-menswear
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menswear
spring
There has been such a wave of surfing-related material recently that it's a wonder it's taken so long to filter into fashion. Well, surf is finally up for spring 2008. Alexander McQueen's latest collection offered the most precise exposition on the theme, partly because his inspiration (a 1961 LeRoy Grannis image of a ...
Tim Blanks
June 23, 2007
Alexander McQueen
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Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
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Alexander Mcqueen
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ready-to-wear
fall
Alexander McQueen may be the last designer standing who is brave or foolhardy enough to present a collection that is an unadulterated piece of hard and ballsy showmanship. The heated arguments that broke out afterward were testament to that. There were those who found his picture of women with sex-doll lips and sometim...
Sarah Mower
March 9, 2009
Alexander McQueen
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Lee McQueen
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Alexander Mcqueen
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pre-fall
The two distinct stories in Alexander McQueen's pre-fall collection elaborated on the themes of the spectacular collection he showed for men in Milan. One group had what was described as "a Dickensian opium den feeling." Dresses were fitted with high necks and the occasional bustle. The second group was all about count...
Tim Blanks
January 19, 2009
Alexander McQueen
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Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
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Alexander Mcqueen
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ready-to-wear
spring
Alexander McQueen, environmentalist? That was the unexpected message that emanated from the mouth of a runway that was backed by a video projection of a revolving Earth, and flanked by a zoo of stuffed animals: an elephant, giraffe, polar bear, lion, and assorted other endangered species. McQueen explained, through pro...
Sarah Mower
October 2, 2008
Alexander McQueen
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Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
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612
Alexander Mcqueen
resort-2009
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2009/alexander-mcqueen
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2,009
resort
Alexander McQueen showed his women's pre-spring collection on the runway alongside his Spring menswear "because they both go into the shop together," but also to mark the season's commercial importance. How reassuring to hear from the designer that 60 percent of his business comes from these gorgeous, uncompromising ou...
Tim Blanks
June 21, 2008
Alexander McQueen
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Lee McQueen
Alexander McQueen
0
613